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PASSAGE: Hong Kong

Hong Kong · 8 stories · A full day

A documentary route through the Hong Kong that migration built — the salvage traders of Sham Shui Po, the Thai kitchens of Kowloon City, the ground where the Walled City stood, and the Sunday when domestic workers take Central back.

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Stories along the way

  1. 1. The Repair CityApliu Street is where Hong Kong keeps the things it hasn't thrown away yet. Circuit boards, cables, salvaged phone parts, bolts of fabric and trays of beads are laid out on the…
  2. 2. A World Inside the CityKowloon City is where the smell of the street changes — lemongrass and fish sauce, Thai groceries stacked to the ceiling, shrines and temples brought here from somewhere else.…
  3. 3. The Densest Place on EarthThis calm garden of pavilions and old trees sits on the footprint of the Kowloon Walled City — for decades the densest informal settlement on earth, tens of thousands of people…
  4. 4. The Old Trading CityThis is the trading city that came before the banking one. Dried seafood, ginseng and abalone sit open in sacks along the pavement, ladder streets climb away up the hill, and the…
  5. 5. Density at Street LevelThere is no better place in Hong Kong to photograph pure human density than here, at eye level, after dark. Temple Street fills with stalls and fortune tellers, the jade market…
  6. 6. Sunday in the Financial DistrictEvery Sunday, the most expensive square kilometre in Asia is handed over to the women who keep its households running. Tens of thousands of Filipina and Indonesian domestic…
  7. 7. The Quieter MirrorA few kilometres east, the Indonesian community holds its own Sunday. Circle dances form on the grass, home-cooked food comes out of stacked containers, and groups gather by home…
  8. 8. The Old Village and the Weekend CoastCome over the ridge on Dragon's Back and the city drops away into sea and headland. Shek O has been here roughly two hundred years — a Hakka and Tanka fishing village with a Tin…